The waterways of Kerala revisited. India

We had business meetings in Tuticorin in Tamil Nadu. Being so close to Kerala we decided 

to spend some time back there. I've written about our love for the area in the previous blog.

It was the Christmas/ New year period so the rest of India was on holidays and we had left 

our arrangements until the last moment. We were to stay at the Taj Garden Resort in Kochin and

 then decided to go on a house boat. The last time we had done this it was for only one night, this 

time we decided to stay on the water for two nights. Because of the holiday period nearly all the 

house boats were taken. The hotel found us about the last available one. It was still available 

because it was so expensive. $Aus600+ per night. Gulp. Sight unseen we agreed to it as a 

Christmas present to ourselves. We drove down from Munnar to board the house boat.

Some house boat. It had a second story lounge-room, a computer room, a spa bath and two 

bathrooms all with floor to ceiling windows. In the bathroom you had to be aware of small 

boats pulling along side and peering in.

Because it was unusual to be out for so long the boat master wasn't sure what to do with us for 

two days. We just wanted to be lazy and not do too much at all. So once again we set off across the Vembanad Lake to join up with the canals and backwaters. Then we hit a houseboat traffic jam.

If your timing is flexible try to avoid the peak periods. It is still very beautiful but a bit crowded.

 The locals totally ignore all the activity on their doorstep as they go about living. 

 Large areas of the backwaters are too narrow for cars so the canals are used for transport 

and water taxis zip along. Most of the local boats are low row boats and you see children 

going off  to school, women going shopping and livestock being transported in them

 There was a never ending supply of banana fritters, fresh scones with jam and tea or coffee.

Up on the extra level the views were wonderful and we got a better perspective of life on the river

 

 Because there were so many boats there was quite a scramble for a night mooring. The house 

boats must be moored by dusk as they are too dangerous for the local traffic at night.

 It doesn't get much better than a scotch and a sunset.

After a great nights sleep we woke to the smell of coffee being brewed, the aroma of breakfast 

being prepared and the the sound of waves gently splashing against the sides of the boat.

We had breakfast watching the river come to life as people set off to work.

We traveled down to Palai to visit the 16th century St Thomas Church. As we got closer 

we were surprised at the amount of Christian imagery on the banks. Small churches and Catholic 

schools were everywhere. It is said that following the death of Jesus, St Thomas came to 

Southern India in AD52. He spent the next 12 years spreading the gospel along the Malabar 

Coast and converting the local population. He is said to have been murdered in AD72 and 

entombed in the Basilica of San Thome in Chennai. He was decreed the Apostle of India 

in 1972. The legacy that he left behind has created an enviable education system that has 

given this region a 100% literacy rate and a reasonable equality of the sexes.

  

 

  

Back on the water we passed a duck farm. The noisiest thing on the water.

 There is plenty of wild life on the river. This hawk gave a fabulous display of fishing

 Puttering around can be such hard work.

The boat master told us that he knew of a hut that had just brought in a large catch of prawns 

so we motored over and bought all the supplies for a delicious meal. Boats were pulling up all 

day selling fresh vegetables and fruit so the food on board is always the freshest you could get.

 Once again, as dusk came, the house boats congregated for the night.

And we settled in for the evening beside a rice field.  

  

Another delightful evening.

We woke to a magical mist as we started on our trip back to Alleppy. The mist dampened 

all sound and there was a quiet gentleness to the morning. A glorious way to finish.

 The locals may ignore the house boats but they have found a good use for them by tying 

themselves to the back of the boats and being towed along. The boat crew are all locals so 

they are just helping their friends out.

 

Back at Alleppy we settled into the Taj and watched another lucky couple heading out for the night.

If you're planning a trip to India go to Kerala and experience the unexpected.

http://dianeworland.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/enchanted-houseboat-kerala-india.html

An enchanted houseboat. Kerala, India

Away from the chaos and noise of India is Kerala. Nestled in the south-west corner of India, Kerala 

is the home of spices, coconut groves and tea plantations. The Western Ghats have protected the 

area from the rest of India and it has developed its own customs and cuisine. Its long coast has been 

used as the landing points for Europeans and Chinese traders over the centuries and everywhere you 

can see influences of the Dutch, Portuguese and English; in both architecture and religion.

One "must do' in Kerala is to take to the water. Kerala has 900 kilometres of waterways and 

canals along the coast and inland. There are large lakes and canals surrounding the rice fields. 

The rice fields are below the level of the canals and get flooded during the planting season by 

opening irrigation channels that are connected to the canals. Along the banks are many towns, 

villages, churches, schools and shops. The waterways are the roads of the area. Travelling on 

the water gives you a voyeuristic view of life. There are many ways for the tourist to travel,

they range from organised tourist cruises to water taxis.

The most popular way is by house boat. The house boats are converted or newly built 

kettuvallams. They were originally used as ferries and to transport rice. Now they have been 

converted into luxury accommodation. There are some shonky owners so it is best to either 

view the boat before you sign on or get a reputable hotel to organise a boat as they will then be 

responsible if any thing goes wrong.

The route that is usually used is from Kollam to Alleppy or Alleppy to Kochin. We arranged 

our boat through the Taj Garden Retreat in Kochin. We got on the boat at the Taj Kumaraon 

and were amazed. The boat was spacious with an open lounge and dining area, an enclosed 

air-conditioned bedroom and at the back a small kitchen and staff area. We were introduced 

to our staff for the next 24 hours. There was a boat master, a cook and a helper. We set off 

across the Vambanad Lake, one of the largest lakes in India. It was so peaceful with water 

birds and never ending cups of tea and coffee.

 It seemed that every hour or so we were offered banana fritters, plates of fresh fruit and 

biscuits. Cars and trucks can only access the periphery of the area so everything ends up going 

by water. The major workhorse seems to be very long, narrow boats that are piled high with 

sacks and  building materials. Usually with only one or two workers struggling to pole them along.

 The locals seemed so used to the tourists that they ignore the houseboats although the children all 

laugh and wave on their way to and from school. Small boats pull up along side the houseboat 

selling freshly caught fish and fresh vegetables and fruit. We were already regretting that we had 

only booked for one night.

 The locals bath in the canals, wash their clothes and pots and pans in the canals and take their 

drinking water from it. The canals are kept remarkably clean.

Most of the houses along the canals have their own jetties and private boats.

 Our houseboat was for a couple but there are much larger ones for families and groups. 

It is a very expensive activity for India with boats ranging from $US200 to $US700 and 

up a night. So it falls very much into having a treat. And it really is a treat. No mobile 

coverage, no email and best of all no computers.

 The array of boats and their uses are wonderfully diverse. We saw school boats dropping off 

students at individual jetties and livestock being taken to different pastures. We saw people 

at boat taxi depots with their shopping waiting to go home. And we saw many other houseboats.

 At night we pulled into a mooring that was close to the boat masters village so he could go home 

for the night. As evening fell there is a bit of a traffic jam as all the boats have to moor. They are 

not allowed to travel during the night as it is considered too dangerous.
 During the day the boats have to travel very slowly so that they don't interfere with the normal daily travel and tip over smaller craft.

 With a picture perfect sunset we popped the cork on a bottle of champagne and settled in watching 

the lights in the villages come on and the night traffic on the canal. Kerala calls itself "God's Own 

Country" and on a night like this I think they are right. After a wonderful meal we sat on the deck
and just relaxed. We slept well with absolute quiet and the gentle rocking of the boat.

The next morning we set off as the waterways came alive.

 All too soon we were caught up in another boat jam as all the houseboats headed to Alleppy.

 At Alleppy we sadly said good bye to the staff and the boat.

We vowed to come back and spend at least two night on a houseboat.

But that's another story.