Singapore Last Day

On our last day in Singapore I decided to see if any of the old Singapore still remained. We 

had been surrounded by progress and new buildings. There seemed to be a head-long rush 

for modernisation. I felt something of old Singapore had to be still there.

We went down to Little India starting in Serangoon Road. We finally found a place that had 

escaped from the developers and shopping mall mentality. The shophouses have paint peeling 

off  them along the covered walkways. Rather than Gucci and Prado there is the Mustafa 

Centre. At Mustafa's you can get a bewildering array of products from India. Silks, curries, 

watches and gold. It is a great place for cheap fabrics and fabulously sequined saris.

 The shophouses are family-owned, and side-by-side, you can get your tyres repaired, buy a 

cheap watch, get your hair styled, grab a quick bite to eat or buy jewellery for a wedding.

 

 In the fashion shops the models reflect the buyers, unlike everywhere else in Singapore.

Little India has escaped gentrification but could do with a bit of tender loving care.

 We visited the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple along Serangoon Road. It was built in 

the mid-19th century by the Indian labourers who had been brought in to tend to the cattle 

that were bred in the area and later to work in open brick kilns and lime pits that were 

needed to build Singapore. The current temple was built in 1983 by specialists brought in
from Southern India and bears a great similarity to the temples in Tamil Nadu.

 We wandered through the back streets and across to the Arab Quarter.

 

 The backstreets have attracted a lot of cheap back-packers accommodation. And that has attracted 

plenty of cheap and cheerful eateries and bars. The place must be buzzing at night.

 We came to the Abdul Gafoor Mosque. It was built with a charming mixture of Islamic and 

European architecture. The mosque stands facing a row of shophouses that are used for Qur'an 

classes and other subjects, as well as for communal activities.

We came upon a very sad street market where locals were selling their household goods. 

Away from Orchard Road there is a very poor underclass that are struggling for their existence.

 At the entrance to the Arab Quarter we found the Sultan Mosque. The original mosque was 

partially built by the East India Company in 1824. It is the most important mosque in Singapore 

and is used by the local Communities of Tamils, Malays, Arabs, Javanese and Indians.

 We found the small streets around the mosque are slowly being taken over by local, quirky, 

fashion designers and trendy little cafes and restaurants. They have come here as the high
rents in Singapore have pushed them out of main stream areas. I wish we had come over 

here earlier in our trip and not on the last day. 

 This was the only area in Singapore that I saw street art and graffiti. It is by far the most 

interesting and vibrant part of Singapore that we visited on this trip.

We said good bye to Singapore after a really interesting week of revisiting old places and 

discovering the new. Of being amazed and slightly saddened by the rapid changes and the 

non-stop redevelopment. Of mourning the loss of neighbourhoods, but pleased that some of 

the original Singapore remains. Of being delighted by such developments as the Red Dot 

Museum and appalled at the bland sameness of the shopping precincts. It will be interesting to 

see where Singapore goes from here.

And now for home to plan the next adventure.

Singapore Day 5

The day started with a wonderful sunrise and then the day went down hill as work took over.

 We didn't leave the hotel till late in the day and caught the train down to the Marina Bay area

to see the light show at the Sands Casino. The Singapore public transport system is sensational. 

As a tourist you can buy a three day ticket that will take you anywhere on the island. It's very 

efficient and quiet with a very sweet female voice asking you to be careful of the gap between 

the train and the platform. After following a bewildering array of signs underground we surfaced 

amid office buildings and apartments near the water. 

 The casino looks sensational from the other side. Statement architecture.

 The Marina Bay development has led to an amazing range of new buildings. It has become 

a Singapore destination on its own. Last time I was in Singapore the only reason to come down 

to this area was to catch a ferry at the Clifford Pier Ferry Terminal.

 People were starting to gather for the light show on the  top of the Casino. 

 It was wonderful seeing the city lights coming on as the sun set. 

The new Science Museum glowed. 

 There was a full moon adding to the atmosphere.

We looked around and saw a rooftop bar at One Fullerton and thought that would be 

an ideal spot to watch the light show from. Dinner and a show.

  

There were no tables available so they directed us to a double daybed arrangement and we 

had dinner while we waited. It's a hard job but someone has to live it.

  

 Then the light show started. I think we had the best position in Singapore to see it. 

With the advantage of a martini or two.

 

The pool on the roof of One Fullerton looked very inviting but swimming with a lot 

of drinking expats wasn't. 

 The interior of One Fullerton. The hotels in Singapore are getting more glamorous.

 The original Fullerton Hotel had just been opened last time I was here. The hotel has been created

from the former General post Office and retains the grandeur of the old colonial architecture.

 

 We decided to walk to the City Hall Station and seeing Singapore at night was worth the effort.

We noticed that St Andrew's Cathedral was still open and we went in. This Anglican church 

was consecrated in 1862. It is made from 'chunam'. A weird mixture of shell lime, egg whites

and coarse sugar mixed with boiled coconut husks.

The subway escalator took us up to Wheelock Place with it's star-like dome.

Another day in Singapore. And now to sleep.