Singapore Day 3

Singapore is in the process of creating a miracle. Making itself bigger by reclaiming land.

We decided to go down to the Marina Bay area and check out what was being built on land 

that wasn't there a decade ago. In 2008 the Marina Barrage was built to create Marina Bay, a

freshwater reservoir. This was to help with the drinking water of Singapore and to help prevent 

floods in the Chinatown region. Singapore had always been hostage to neighbouring countries for 

their water supply so trying to become self-sufficient in water has always been really important. 

Around the bay has sprung up an incredible collection of hotels, office buildings and recreation 

facilities. On the water front is the lotus shaped Art and Science museum.

 We had lunch at Sky on 57, a restaurant on the top of tower three of the Sands Casino.

The view is extraordinary and gives a great idea of the importance of Singapore as a seaport 

as there are container vessels as far as the eye can see. And there are stunning views down 

into the port area where the ships are being unloaded.

 

 Although a lot of the area is still a building site some hotels and office buildings have 

been completed on the sea front of the Marina Bay area.

 The Gardens at Marina Bay will be a huge attraction when they are completed. The Gardens 

were designed by architect Wilkinson Eyre and landscape architects Grant Associates.

The Gardens are made up of large conservatories and a forest of super-tall solar trees. 

The trees range in height from 25 to 50 meters and are designed to collect enough 

rainwater and solar energy to run the conservatories. The tallest tree will house a bistro and 

two of the trees are joined by an elevated walkway to give you an over-view of the gardens. 

The trees will be planted with ferns and vines. They will supply shade in the heat of the day 

and help modify the temperature of the surrounding gardens. 

The Gardens are expected to be open in June 2012

 In 2002 the Esplanade-Theatres on the Bay was opened. The shape of the buildings with their 

aluminium sunshades have lead to the nick-name, "The Durian", after the scaly tropical fruit

 

 The architectural jewel of the Marina Bay area is the Sands Casino. It was designed by Moshe 

Safdie and Associates and cost $8 billion, including the land. Joining the three towers is the 

world's largest cantilevered platform. On the platform are two restaurants, a swimming pool 

and an observation platform. The swimming pool is only open to hotel guests. The viewing 

platform will cost you $S20 or you can just go to one of the restaurants and have a drink 

while taking in the incredible view.

The three towers are joined with a huge atrium area that has numerous eating places and shops. 

I found it all a little cold and over-whelming in scale. It's lost that human feeling.

Attached to the hotel is the casino and shopping precinct. The shopping mall is enormous and 

contains all the usual international brands. Most of the shops seemed empty.

That night we went to the Singapore Night Zoo. This was my third visit and it is one of my 

favourite zoos. The concept of walking around in partial darkness to watch nocturnal animals 

was always going to be a winner. Like everything else in Singapore the entrance, which used 

to be quite simple, has been over-touristed with shops, cafes and fire-eaters.

 But the animals more than made up for it.

Back to the hotel to look at what to visit tomorrow.

Singapore Day 4

Today started very slowly as there were phone conferences with Spain, Nevada, Melbourne and 

Laos. By the time work was over I just went out and walked around the giant shopping mall that is 

known as Orchard Road. I allowed myself to get lost in the underground labyrinth that keeps people 

out of the heat and still shopping.

Looking at all the shops I reflected on the importance of Western brands in Asia. 

It's not as if there aren't fabulous designers in Asia. From Japan alone there is Miyake Issei, 

Mori Hanae, Takada Kenzo, Kawakubo Rei and Maruyama Keita to name just a few.

And there are stand-alone branded Asian fashion stores: Shanghai Tang from Hong Kong 

and Comme des Garcons from Japan. I got on the web and discovered that in Singapore there

are four Shanghai Tang shops and one Comme des Garcons. But there are eight Bvlgari outlets, 

six Dior, five Fendi and three Chanel shops. As well as strong representations by Bally, Coach, 

Gucci, Zara, and Topshop and many more well known branded companies. 

It is starting to look like a flashy, trashy airport shopping centre.

Singapore is not alone. I've seen this trend in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Tokyo. I realise the 

same brands are to be found all around the world but there seems to be a heavy domination 

by them in Asia. I personally have a problem wearing logos. I feel that if I am going to become 

a walking advertisement for a particular company they can pay me. These brands are expensive,

by wearing them you are saying 'I can afford this' rather than an indication of your own tastes.

 If you're not confident in your own style then self-identification with someone-else's brand 

philosophy could invest you with self-worth. But it can't give you a sense of identity. 

It is borrowing another's values. 

Another megacity that I visit regularly is Mumbai. Western brands are well represented 

in the shopping malls of the large hotels but in the main shopping centres everything 

is Indian. Does this mean that Indians are more confident than Asians in their own 

style and don't feel the need to adopt an alien identity?

 

This identification of Western style includes the mannequins. In India I have seen mannequins 

that have been changed to make them look Indian, I haven't seen the same in Asia. I simply 

don't get a young Chinese girl identifying with a blond-haired, blue-eyed fashion display. 

 Earlier I mentioned Shanghai Tang. All of their designs have a cultural link to Chinese heritage, 

whether it's with the fabric design or a subtly upturned collar. Their clothes are recognisable by their 

style without the need for giant logos (although some of their designs have a small logo).

Chinese culture has a rich history of wonderful silks and exquisite embroidery. 

You see none of this in the shops or on the streets. 

 I continued to wander through shopping heaven or hell, whatever you feel about endless consumerism, in the hope that I would find a style that reflected the geographic area I was in.
 No such luck.

 Harley Davidson, Prada, Rolex, Tiffanys, Mui Mui and another Dior.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

 

 I was really disturbed by the lack of a 'Singapore" identity. 

That night we decided to revisit a place that we had eaten at over a decade ago.

We got a cab to Nelsons Circle. A long time ago the area was a ramshackle arrangement of 

food shacks in a vacant lot. It was noisy and colourful and full of amazing aromas.

It is now neat and tourist friendly. The dirt has been exchanged for concrete.

It is all well lit and, like the rest of Singapore, incredibly safe.

 But at least we found a true Singapore brand. Tiger beer.

 

 Now you are presented with menus from the numerous touts but the crabs and the 

oyster omelettes were still delicious.

 It's just a pity that yet another chaotic area of Singapore has been turned into a theme park.