Over a decade ago I used to lecture in a shophouse in Tras Street, Chinatown.
In the 1980's, Chinatown was one of the first areas to be restored. Crumbling shophouses
were repaired and repainted with their original vibrant colours. In the 1990's the area was
starting to attract small quirky businesses but it still felt like a neighbourhood. After classes
we would all go out for very cheap food in hole-in-the-wall eateries.
I wanted to see the changes that time had bought to the area.
I found that money has moved in with a vengeance. Advertising agencies, chic shops and
smart restaurants have forced out the local businesses. The area looks vibrant and is in
wonderful condition. A magnet for tourists. The greatest change has been in the airspace
around Chinatown. You used to be able to see the sky but high-rise developments have
encroached right up to the very edges of this low-rise neighbourhood.
Tall buildings loom, claustrophobically over a time gone by.
One fabulous addition to Chinatown is the Red Dot Museum at 28 Maxwell Road.
www.red-dot.sg/museum
Red Dot originated in Berlin to recognise the best in product and communication design.
In 2005 the organisation decided to open their first museum outside Germany and they
chose Singapore. It is now the largest contemporary design museum in Asia.
The museum is a show case to over 200 award winning designs. It is very hands-on
with the expectation that you can play with the products. It covers all house-hold
products. Some of the lights are sensational. You can also get a catalogue that shows
you if the products are for sale and where you can get them.
The space itself is well worth dropping into to see. It is a large old building that has
been gutted and rebuilt with a large open area surrounded by smaller rooms that
are well laid out and beautifully lit.
One of the Red Dot award winning companies is Tupperware and an entire
room is devoted to a unique abstract arrangement of their products.
The Nescafe range is included.
Mercedes Benz also gets a showing
If you're renovating or building, the range of bathroom fittings
will spark your imagination.
I find good design sexy. If you do as well, visit the Red Dot museum. And if you are
stuck at Changi Airport for a few hours get out and catch a taxi downtown.
Singapore isn't just about Orchard Road shopping.
After an hour or so it was time to resume our wander around Chinatown.
The Al-Abrar Mosque was closed for renovations.
Further down Telok Ayer Street we went into The Thain Hock Keng Temple.
It was also undergoing renovations. As it was last time I visited. The temple was built
in 1839. It was built by sailors to honour the goddess Ma Zu who gave her life to give
sailors a save passage. It also honours Guan Yin who rejected heaven to return to earth
to help the unfortunate and the needy.
The maritime theme can been seen in the roof decorations with the ceramic
wave designs. Floral designs abound. It is a chaos of colour.
There are now small parks dotted through the area with street sculptures keeping alive
the history and the stories of the original inhabitants of the area.
Every thing looks so sparkling and new.
Small private shrines to Guan Yin are all around the neighbourhood.
The Chinatown Pedestrian Mall was very tourist back then. Today it is more so.
There used to be a lot of antique stores hidden behind the cheap market stalls. Now
they are more likely to be selling knock-offs from China, Indonesia or Vietnam. It really
is a matter of buyer beware. There are still plenty of cheap cafes and restaurants lining
the streets. I have memories of sitting at these outdoor eateries when men with chemical
protection suits would come through filling the area with toxic spray to kill assorted vermin
and creepy things. I doubt the department of tourism would allow that to happen now.
For the entire time I had been coming to Singapore the area where the pedestrian
mall meets New Bridge Road had been in upheaval as the new underground rail line
was being built. It was great to finally see it finished
We walked along New Bridge Road and spotted this wonderful facade of
Oriental styled Art Deco.
We finally got to Clarke Quay. This has been done-over purely for tourists.
Its colours are Asia light, especially when you see the vibrancy of the shophouses in
Chinatown. The pastels are probably restful for the weary traveller. Looks more like Disney
than Singapore. Although the location on the Singapore River makes it an attractive
place to stop for a drink. Its also were most of the tourist river boats take-off from.
You don't see many locals on the riverside bungee ride
We then decided to walk up to the City Hall railway station and passed the grand
colonial Singapore Fire Station.
In the park beside Saint Andrews we caught our first glimpse of the Marina Bay
Sands Casino. Photographs don't do its impact on the skyline justice. Like it or loathe
it the building is a marvel of architecture and engineering. The palm trees on the Sky Deck
give it human proportions. The building in front of the Casino is part of Singapore's new arts
complex. The locals have nick-named it the Durian because of its resemblance to the fruit.
This was also our first view of the Singapore Flyer. This is the largest observation wheel in
the world. On a clear day you can see for nearly 48 km. But as the top of the Casino is higher
the view from the Sky Deck would probably be further.
We finished the evening at Akanoya Robatayaki.
For more detail on our night out read
http://dianeworland.blogspot.com/2012/04/honey-we-have-to-sell-kids-dining-out.html
And so to bed.
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